4 D's - How to Avoid Buyer's Remorse

There are generally two types of buyer's remorse; one is when you pay too much for a collectible, the other is when you leave something behind and wish you had bought it.

Below you will find some 'Wing Tips', most of them were learned the hard way.

Damage

There is nothing quite like the feeling you get when you take that special piece you just carted home, put it in a sink full of sudsy water, pick it up to gently wash it and you see the giant CRACK.

There are many things that can lower the esthetic and monetary value of a collectible piece of Red Wing:

Crack	The piece is broken but nothing fell off. The break extends from the surface into the body of the item. Hairline cracks usually can be seen best when the item has been immersed in water a short period of time.
Chip	A small piece is missing. Often used to describe a ding where the item was bumped hard enough so a piece of the glaze is missing but not much of the surface beneath it was disrupted.
Fading	The original glaze color or intensity has changed from the original in a uniform or non-uniform manner. Fading might be caused by sunlight, heat or chemical exposure.
Staining	Usually a non-uniform change in color. It could be rust, dirt or other undesirables beneath the glaze.
Streaking	A non-uniform form of fading or staining not part of the original glaze.
Crazing	Only the glaze on the item is cracked. Usually caused by the body of the item shrinking away from the glaze. A special glaze that looks similar to crazing called "Crackle" was used on a few Red Wing items.
Flake	A piece larger than a chip is missing, most often used to describe a chunk missing from the bottom of the piece.

Most places where you purchase collectibles have a sold "as is", "no returns", policy for handling transactions. As you browse through the marketplaces you find many damaged pieces that are not marked as being so, the standard marking on a piece that has damaged is to have clearly marked on the price tag the words as is. This may seem redundant in view of the policy of most stores but for most ethical places the warning is on the label.

Be especially wary of those items that are not thoroughly clean, dirt can cover many potential problems.

To try to minimize regrets over a purchase, below is a list of several things to try (add others as needed):

Carry a magnifying glass with a built in light.
Shop with someone else and let them look it over, preferably in the brightest light.
One of the most difficult things to spot is a hairline crack. Ask permission to dampen any area on the item (use a wet paper towel) that is of concern to you. It is extra nice when you can dunk it in a sink full of water (Hey, its your money!). Don't get water on the price tag, if the clerk can't read the price, often the item can't be sold until the tag is replaced.
Have the proprietor/clerk remove the price tag so you can check for problems or important markings beneath it. If the store sees you removing the tag, you can get in real trouble so have them do it. Remember, even a small chip or crack can diminish the value of most pieces considerably. (Hey, its your money!).
Give it the sniff test. If it smells like bleach or some other strong cleaning solution, be wary. Many pieces with severe crazing can temporarily look like new if treated with the right stuff. If there is unsightly staining beneath the glaze there has to be either a crack, chip or crazing for it to get there. Look carefully around factory flaws in the surface, this may be a weak point, a place where hairline cracks sometimes form. Sometimes if the bottom of the piece is unglazed staining can wick up from the bottom. (Hey, its your money!)

Dazzle - This is where a rational human being can lose a bundle!

So you checked for damage and this still looks like a special piece, what else can you consider before digging out the old pocketbook?

Is this an item that will fill a special need in your collection?
Is the item rare? It can be rare because few were produced/survived, or it might be because of a mistake in the factory adornments that make it especially collectible. Stoneware items are especially desirable if the numbers, wings, ovals, leaves, colors, are unique (Big Bucks here!). Many artware items are rare because of their age or a unique glaze (nokomis). Dinnerware items are pricey if the production run was limited (delta blue) or it is a pattern popular among collectors (bobwhite).
Be aware that fakes exist. When the potteries closed their doors in 1967 many of the molds were sold. A variety of knock-off items can be found, many with the characteristic Red Wing stamp. If the item weighs either to much or too little compared to a known similar piece, watch out. Many fake pieces of art pottery just do not have a characteristic Red Wing glaze. One of the newsletters reported recently that someone was stamping red wings on the outside of the glaze of stoneware, covering them with shellac and selling these pieces as authentic.
Besides the fakes mentioned above, some pieces that look identical to authentic Red Wing have been produced by other potteries. This is true for all ages of Red Wing ware. If its not marked, consult an expert.
The more expensive an item the more carefully you should check it for repairs that cover up a crack, chip or flake. It is more difficult to repair glazed items compared to most glass but it can be done effectively but usually with considerable expense. Some large stoneware items can be squeezed back together at the site of a crack, and with the right glue, you have difficulty seeing the original damage. To the ethical seller, the price difference between a damaged item and a repaired item is not that much, it has been suggested that a damaged item is valued AT A MAXIMUM of 1/4 th of that of an identical undamaged item. A black light is of little use in detecting damage or repairs in pottery items.
In a special category of collectibles called commemoratives, in general, the most valuable are those produced by the RWCS. Over the years since the pottery closed, many similar items have been produced by a variety of sources. Get to know the difference.

Dollars

If there is no discernible damage and you are appropriately dazzled by the item, how much should you pay?

Red Wing collectors should be thankful that there are some pretty comprehensive guides to pricing that specialize in only Red Wing items. The guides for Stoneware have been around several years and are up-dated frequently. The artware guides are more recent and the price spread in them less precise. As of now it is difficult to find an inclusive guide to pricing dinnerware. Recent dinnerware prices are best found in the two newsletters published devoted to RW collectibles. You will have to dig through the newsletters to compile your list for dinnerware prices. Keep the guides with you when you shop.

All the price guides tell you that the prices listed are for items in excellent condition. All the categories in the previous "Damage" section detract from the value. In addition to actual damage there are some other things to consider:

	If the item has a raised design and mold marks are not clear, this lack of detail can affect the cost. If you are collecting items with a particular glaze, an off-color batch used on an item might affect the value. Be aware that the size of an item often has an influence on the value(compare a $700 60 gallon crock to a $40 2 gallon with the same markings and condition).
	Also, the potteries operated a factory store nearby. Among the things they sold were production seconds, items with some flaw. Not all flawed items are worth less. If the flaw makes the item unique, it could be worth considerably more than similar pieces.
	Missing lids can cost a bundle. Sometimes an original lid costs as much as the item it covered. Also, be aware that replicas are being made, especially for crocks, churns and cookie jars. As with all ethical operations, the reproductions should be marked, not everyone does it clearly.
	Another intangible that often enters into a price negotiation is sentimental value. Remember (sent)imental is not (cent)imental, don't pay extra!

Doubt

Basically, if you have gone through the process above and have any doubt, don't buy the item. There is plenty of Red Wing out there. How will you feel about having a damaged, over-priced piece setting on your mantle as a constant reminder of your haste in making a purchase? Little is more satisfying to the collector than to come home having found a special piece at a great price!

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